Training

So, under the direction of our friend Brad Heller , Scott Buccambuso and I are doing this crazy climbing workout. I have never really lifted weights before so it is very different for me, but the hangboard workouts seem to be very beneficial. I am doing a new version starting tomorrow because the pockets have been hurting my fingers a little bit (I’ll post that soon).

Systematically increase your strength for climbing.

I will gladly explain what I know to anybody but here is the general workout and some other resources.

The first 6 week phase of the Program includes soviet strength weight training M-W-F,  hangboard work outs every 3rd day, and easy traversing (two 30 minute sessions with a 10 minute break) as often as you like (aim for 3 times a week min) .

Here is the lifting chart:

Just put in your max weight based on how may times you can lift the weight. Example:  if I lift 115lbs 11 times then that would be 80% of my max. So 145 would be my max. On the spreadsheet fill that in as 145 in cell C and the rest auto fills. When doing the lifts try to flex all of you muscles in your body first. Maintain perfect form through the lift (no swinging).

On the days you are doing “80% x 2” it is going to feel very easy. But that is OK. You are building up slowly. It will feel hard when you are doing your x6’s(reps).

I haven’t properly formatted the cells yet. Some are close; I just need to finish the functions down through the weeks. Does anybody want to finish it for me and send it back?

www.nuclimbing.com/SovietStrengthclimbing1.xls

Hangboard work outs.

I think that we may want to avoid pockets your first sessions doing this. I’m going to put a new one up soon. Read the “Rock Prodigy” article regarding campus training and hang board training. It has good information about stressing tendons properly and after how long to implement this very specific form of training into your schedule. It can be dangerous if done without following this advice.

www.nuclimbing.com/hangboardtraining2.xls

This is where we are getting a lot of our ideas from:

Read this to understand it, I’ll let you know how we have modified it.

www.nuclimbing.com/rockprodigy.pdf

I didn’t write any of it. Just forwarding it on to people who have been asking for it. I will explain more later.