First hangboard workouts.

First hangboard workouts.

Posted by admin

06 Mar 2009 — 5 Comments

Posted in Uncategorized


Here is a good first hangboard workout. If you are lifting weights there is no need to do the one are lock-offs and one are pull-ups. Track your weight that you take off. I think you guys all understand that we are using a pulley system to take weight off and hanging weights on our harnesses to add weight. If you want I’ll send some pics. Knowing that, here is the rest of what you need to know.

You are way less likely to get hurt on the first one because its only 3 finger workouts instead of 2 finger, but here are the rules to help you not get hurt.

1. Hydration – Make sure that you are super hydrated, drink quite a bit the day of the workout so your tendons are extra strong. I think your tendons are 70% weaker if you’re only a little bit (20-30%) dehydrated. I started to re-injure a finger so I had to stop doing 2 finger exercises and go to 3 finger for a week. But then I was stronger than ever!

2. Warm up – The Rock Prodigy article goes into detail about warming up properly. Do a few sets of pullups, soak your fingers for 5 minutes in a warm water bath and traverse at the gym for 10 minutes if doing the workout there.

3. Recovery – They say only do this twice a week (or every 36-96 hours). If you feel any finger pain (not skin pain), then you are hurting yourself and you need to decrease the weight. So add weight to a pulley system to take more weight off.

4. Pace yourself – Don’t increase weight too quickly. It is easy to get confidence and add too much weight. You should fail on the last rep of each set, and you want to feel straining in your fingers and forearms, but not tweaky pain. You are warming up on your 7-second set, so it might feel a little tweaky. I add more weight my 3rd set if I questions it. 5-10lbs is how much you should be adding per rep.

5. Tension – When your holding on the holds, flex your whole body and try to focus on your lower abs This will stimulate your nervous system and help you generate more power. This will also give you better core and a flatter stomach.

6. Notes – Make notes on each set on how you feel. I put an ‘E’ next to the weight if it was easy, a frowny face if my tendons hurt, and a ‘F’ if I failed before the seconds where up. This will help you increase weight at a good pace.

If you are board with work out one, then more on to workout 2 after a minimum of 4 workouts.


There are currently 5 Comments on “First hangboard workouts.”. Perhaps you would like to add one of your own?

  1. Mike D

    14 Jul 2009 @ 6:16 pm

    Yo Casey! I finally got my hangboard setup to do this training. We should get together sometime so that I can get ALL of the beta. Maybe I should just start calling you Dad from now on…

  2. Andrew

    02 Jan 2010 @ 10:31 am

    Thanks for the workouts! I just bought a metolius hangboard. In reference to workout 1, I was wondering what the different numbers in the cells of different workout days meant. The instructions do not refer to these numbers at all, and they vary from day to day.
    For instance, the pinch exercise on day 1, 7×7 is 10 (?), 7×6 is 10, and 7×5 is 20. What do those numbers mean? I know what 7×7 means, but the numbers after them make no sense to me as they arent described in the instructions.


  3. Casey Hyer

    02 Jan 2010 @ 5:44 pm

    Sorry about that. 10 means +10lbs hanging on your harness. I usually make a note next to it too: E-easy, F-failed, ☺- good (smiley face). Also make sure you are taking weight off to, so that would be -20 or whatever.

    Other notes:
    Keep track of your weight and note it every workout-ish
    Warm your fingers up slowly, do a few pull ups or putting them in hot water under the sink and stretching them
    Make sure you are very hydrated, your fingers loose more than half of there strength when they are only slightly dehydrated
    I would really recommend doing the 3 finger workout I have on there for 2 weeks before you do the 2 finger workout.
    Change your holds you are working out on after a 2 flat workouts or about every 4-6 weeks.

    Stay psyched and remember you won’t really see huge results for a few weeks but then it takes off. I went from -55lbs to +15 on some holds. It made a pretty huge difference in my climbing.

  4. Rapid fat loss

    09 Jun 2010 @ 9:36 am

    Dude, that was a good post. Lovin your blog like crazy.”

  5. Melida Hooten

    22 Sep 2010 @ 7:46 am

    Tired of getting low amounts of useless traffic for your website? Well i want to inform you of a new underground tactic which makes myself $900 per day on 100% AUTOPILOT. I possibly could be here all day and going into detail but why dont you just check their site out? There is a excellent video that explains everything. So if your seriously interested in making easy money this is the website for you. Auto Traffic Avalanche

Leave a Comment