Tribute to one of Logan’s pioneers

Mike Eams recently passed away.

Mike was a good freind and I will really miss him.

Mike Eams

http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/hjnews/obituary.aspx?n=michael-joseph-eames&pid=140374372

Hobbit Caves

Hey Guys, there is a new roue at the Hobbit Caves. Chad Christensen & Jared Stapp bolted one route on the tower to the left side of the wall and called it The Goblin. I guess it goes at 10c.

I think it could have used four more routes right there so someone else go put em’ up!

More pics from China Cave and Betagraph

Here are some photographs of Cyndi on Oboe at China Cave and Betagraphic. Todd is really really close to doing Freak. It has been a good month for him for sure!

Todd Parr Crushes Big Brawl

So there has been quite a bit going on at China Cave this year in Logan Canyon. Last week I saw local Todd Parr just crush Big brawl.

Also there is a new route starting at Trench Warefare that moves right and directly below crimprest (5.14 project), and another route inbetween Oboe and Secret Sharer.

I think that 2nd has been done by now; I’ll try to get an update on that soon.

All photos by Casey Hyer

Todd Parr sending Slug Fest

Logan Canyon clean up day

Here is a message from Scott. If anyone can make it they really should try.

Fellow climbing enthusiasts,

The Northern Utah Climbers’ Coalition is hosting a trash clean-up day in Logan Canyon on Saturday, June 27. The day will kick off at 9:00 am at First Dam with coffee and juice, followed by groups venturing into the canyon to collect as much trash as we can. The clean-up day we hosted last fall resulted in almost 150 pounds of garbage being removed from the canyon, though unfortunately this is an effort we must make regularly to keep our climbing, camping, and other recreation areas clean and beautiful. Once we are finished with the trash clean-up we encourage everyone to hit the crags and spend the rest of the day climbing and enjoying our freshly cleaned canyon!

This first event of the 2009 climbing season will also mark the beginning of NUCC’s first organized membership drive. Membership and the collection of dues is a critical part of our work in keeping climbing areas in Northern Utah accessible. We will follow the tiered membership structure used by the Access Fund, and ask members to contribute what they can to support our work. A more detailed membership dues schedule will be developed in the coming days and you will be notified as soon as one is decided upon. In the meantime, we would be more than happy to hear feedback from you regarding this. We are in the process of becoming a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization, which will allow us to better compete for grant money for tasks such as anchor and bolt/hanger replacement. The establishment of an annual members list and collection of dues is a part of this effort. The naming of a founding Board of Directors is also a part of becoming a nonprofit group. In the future such positions will be voted upon by members, but as we have not yet had an official memership drive the following five people have stepped up to guide the formation of NUCC as an official nonprofit organization, and will act in the capacity of directors for the first term of service:

Trevor Barrett
Matt Shannon
Greta Langenheim
Dan Galliher
Scott Hoffman

Opportunities to contribute will become available as committees are formed to address issues such as organization finances, media development, community outreach, and project development. Maintaining NUCC will result from work by all active members. More information about organization bylaws, articles of incorporation, and voting scedules will be provided at our first members’ meeting to be held after our membership drive is completed.

So please mark your calendars and join us on the 27th! As always, feedback is needed and appreciated!

Scott

Yes, there is an update to the guide book coming out soon.

So I just talked to Fred at Sharpend Publishing and he let me know there are only about 200 Northern Utah Climbing guide books left! So it is great that we will be able to get all the updates in the new book.

It was annoying that all mile markers were changed right after the book was published because most of the locations are were based on them. Logan Canyon will be much easier to navigate after the updates are published.

I’m really excitted about getting some new pics in the book. The old book was shot in really old digital jpg mode, or film! Yes film! I have been going over pics taken after the guide was published and there are now many that are better. I am excited to come up the during the next few weeks and take a bunch more!

Also- there are some new routes, and may first ascents for the guide.

If you have a project that you want me to photograph, give me a call.

Casey

801.245.9031

Spring NUCC activities‏

I just got a message from Scott and thought I would share it. Basically he is looking for more people to be involved who care about Logan Canyon’s climbing. Please contact him to be on his email list.

“Hello!

The Northern Utah Climbers’ Coalition is impatiently anticipating the arrival of warmer weather and dry rock! Spring should be right around the corner, and with it comes info on recent and upcoming NUCC activities.

Over the winter months, we have been working to submit paperwork to become a 501(c)(3) organization, which should simplify future fundraising efforts. With official non-profit status, businesses, individuals, etc. will be able to make donations to the coalition and declare them as charitable donations for tax purposes. Part of this effort has been to compose NUCC Articles of Incorporation, which if anyone is interested in viewing, let me know and I will forward you the complete document. Boring reading, I must admit, but you never know what people are into.

We will be conducting our first concerted membership drive in the next few months. A tiered membership framework, based on that of the Access Fund, will be implemented. More information will follow as organization proceeds.

Other news:

Many thanks to Michael Langenheim for creating some killer potential logos for NUCC. We hope to include these on upcoming t-shirts and stickers to be made for our membership drive.

Monitoring work with the threatened McGuire Primrose in Logan Canyon will continue this spring, organized by Sylvia Torti and Greta Langenheim. Information on volunteering will be forthcoming.

John Bachar will be visiting UVU to present a slideshow on April 29, 2009. Info can be found on Mountain Project at the following link:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/106401707

(I believe John’s slideshows are renowned for being must-see events.)

As we progress into the upcoming climbing season, please keep us informed of news, issues, activities, and other events that would be of interest to the coalition. Our constant goal is to keep an open dialogue occurring among Northern Utah climbers, and your input is always appreciated.

Be in touch again soon!

Scott”

Finger Board is really working

Hey everybody,
I just just got back from St. George last night, and I just want to say that the hangboard work outs really work!! Just 3 months ago before the workouts I tried the Waltz and could not touch it. This time it felt much much easier. The bad slopper felt like a jug, and the crimp match was really static and controlled! it is not all from just the fingerboard work out. I think the Soviet strenght program worked wonders.

Mike Crushing the Waltz

Last Chance Falls is Still in! There is still ice somewhere in Utah.

Hey guys, I just got this email from Jim:

Casey,

If anyone you know or you still have a desire to ice climb this late in the spring as I did last week (although Archland was looking really nice in the sun on Saturday), Last Chance Falls still offers that opportunity. I just thought I would tell you since you have many contacts in the climbing world. I will post something on utahclimbers.com and rockclimbing.com later.

The last 30 feet or so is still a nice pillar. The center rib was a bit porous and hollow but to the left or right it was very satisfying. I have attached a poor photo taken from the base on my cellphone. The lower part has about 6 feet of ice on the right and then there is the center section ramp that is covered with snow from the Mar 9 storm and probably a new snow avi.

You can drive to the turnout in a 4-wheel drive, although I parked on Logan Canyon Highway and skied in. It is a slog up to the Falls but I think it might always be that way this time of year. I had knee deep snow most of the way and deeper at times. The avi path below the Falls looks definitely like a new snow avi came down after the Mar 9 storm.

Lastly, for various reasons from not feeling good to other factors, I left a Black Diamond express ice screw, about 13 cm, a sling and associated biners screwed into the upper pillar if someone wants to go in and grab it. I would probably be willing to pay someone $15-20 for their time or they could just keep it for themselves.

I am so busy the next 2 -3 weeks that I will not make it back in there until after that.

Maybe next fall-winter we could climb the Falls together.

Cheers,

Jim Burns
Cell: 435-760-1843

thanks Jim!

A day in Joes.

Scott B, Anthony Chertudi, and Marrion(sp?) and I spent the day in Joe’s Valley on Saturday. Anthony is projecting something in the range of V13 and is super strong. The boulder that he found is this huge thumb shaped thing way up on a hill. The warm up was V7 and not super easy.

Anyways, the training is working great. Eveything felt static and really pretty easy, except the V7 that I’m on. That felt high, hard and scary.

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